Focus Stacking in Landscape Photography
Focus stacking also known as z-stacking, a post-processing technique to increase the depth of field in photographs. This is done by combining several images taken at different focus distances. This processing gives an image with far greater depth of field then the source images.
Focus stacking is widely used for macro photography like landscape photography. In today’s post, I am going to discuss how you can use this technique for your landscape photography.
With wider lenses and more extreme foregrounds, it’s becoming tougher to get a whole image sharp in landscape photography. Even if you use optimal apertures, they are not to get both background and foreground sharp as you wish.
So to fix this issue focus stacking is widely used by photographers. Photographers may need to use focus stacking as the idea of sharpness varies between photographers.
Get Ready! With your tools
To do focus stacking, you would need some equipment’s first. I would recommend the following stuff.
• DSLR or MILC with Live-View
• Manual focus mode uses in the lens
• Remote shutter release
• Circular Polarizer
• Adobe Photoshop
• Pen Tablet
Focus stacking is used in different compositions. However, you can break them into some following basic categories. The number of frames required and settings depend on specific groups. The types are-
• A subject that does not move
• A subject that moves slightly
• Closeness to the subject
Shoot and Shoot!!!
Before getting into shooting analyze your composition and get a note of the scene in your mind. Notice if the scene has moving objects that you want to render sharply. These can be flowers trees, grasses. Firstly, you have to consider your shutter speed.
Generally lower shutter speed gets the job done. Typically, many landscapes are shot in low light; you may need to increase the ISO and open up your aperture. However, remember that increase ISO will increase noise.
If you open up the aperture, it will lower the depth of field. Then you may need to add frames. Generally, you want to shoot around f/8-f/11.
When you are done choosing ISO and aperture, it's time to shoot. I am going to share some steps that you can follow. Just remember the more your lenses are to the subject, the more you have to shots.
Next, follow these steps:
1. With your camera immovably mounted on your tripod, switch your camera into Live-View mode (screen on back demonstrates a set of the scene).
2. Ensure that your camera and focal point are set to manual center, and kill vibration decrease
3. Move the center casing into position straightforwardly finished the nearest subject in the casing
4. Utilize your playback zoom catch to zoom into the spot you chose. As a rule zoom in beyond what many would consider possible, and afterward back off more than once.
5. Since you can see the subject instantly, utilize your focal point's manual concentrate ring to center around that spot. Live view makes this simple.
6. Once engaged, confirm presentation settings and utilize your remote screen discharge to take your first casing.
7. Snap your playback catch and audit the picture. Zoom in to nearly measure the profundity of field you accomplished, and give careful consideration to where you lose sharpness facilitate into the edge. You will need to concentrate somewhat behind this spot straight away.
8. Back in Live-View, move the center casing into the spot you noted in #7. Rehash #4-7 for the same number of edges as expected to cover the whole profundity of the field in the scene. This might be two pictures or 12; everything relies upon the scene. (When you get this arrangement aced, you will have the capacity to do this considerably quicker than your first time around!)
9. When you have every one of the pictures required for the profundity of the field, guarantee that you additionally have kept up an adequate introduction. You may need to take an extra edge for the sky (or another beautiful region) if your histogram demonstrates that you have blown features.
You can guess that the subject that does not move is easy to capture and shoot. So these are easy to arrange in focus stack. Moving objects can also be stacked. Additionally, the closeness to the subject will undoubtedly vary the number of shots to get the full depth of field.